Mawenzi - Climbing Guide

Guide Book

MAWENZI

CLIMBING GUIDE
Mawenzi
Kilimanjaro
Note: Mawenzi is the second highest summit of Kilimanjaro, access information is described in the Kilimanjaro section of this guide.

A complex ridge comprising several summits; the rock is rather poor. The highest point is Hans Meyer Peak (5149m), first attained by E Oehler, F Klute, 29 July 1912. From the Saddle an easy walk leads east to the Mawenzi Hut (4600m), below the west face; water nearby (lh). One km north of hut the north-west corrie is bounded to its north by the Oehler Ridge; north of this lies the Oehler Couloir - route of the first ascensionists. R113 gains the Oehler Couloir at half height and provides the easiest way to the main summit.

113 Oehler Couloir by North-West Corrie variation 400m II* 5h.

R E Caukwell, P A Campbell, D Bell, G Low, L Benito, 1951. Start at top left corner of scree in the north-west corrie, in the left-hand of two gullies. Follow this, going left if in doubt, till the ridge is reached. A short scramble gains a small gully which leads into the Oehler Couloir some 60m below an icefall which can be tackled from the right or avoided completely by climbing a gully to the right of it. Above, a col is reached. Hans Meyer Peak is a short distance to the south. In good snow conditions the route is straightforward, otherwise icy rocks may be met. Descent is best done early to avoid melting snow and falling rock.
Map of Mawenzi
Map of Mawenzi

 
Mawenzi
Mawenzi

 
Mawenzi from Kibo
Mawenzi from Kibo

 
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ALW 25/05/13
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