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Llyn Brianne

Rock Climbs

Llyn BrianneThe extensive cliffs overlooking Llyn Brianne and the dam owe their existence to quarrying for rock to build the dam. Access and parking with toilet facilities are very convenient. The cliffs face south and west, dry quickly and provide climbing in a very pleasant setting. The rock is a rather compact and sometimes friable schist. Very little natural protection is available. All routes have pitons or bolts placed on them so the overall style involves quite well protected climbing with some suspect rock. Bolts are 8mm diameter steel hangers with 3 or 5 cm stems epoxy cemented into tight fitting holes; they should take a leader fall but have no UIAA stamp of approval. The 5 cm stem bolts are heavy duty, industrial boron steel bolts and referred to as HD bolts in the descriptions. The easier Entrance Wall routes, though bolted, are of a rather bolder character. Routes on individual cliffs are described from left to right.

Several areas have been developed:

Entrance Wall, Hangover Buttress
The first area described lies on the right side of the approach road leading up to the Llyn Brianne car park. Entrance Wall is composed of 4 slabby tiers, then comes Hangover Buttress, a steep brown wall above which lies a second slabby tier.
Car Park Quarry lies immediately beside the car park.
The main quarry is composed of several areas. The Main Wall lies above a broad terrace; it is some 300m long, 30m high on average and west-facing. Access to the broad terrace is barred by the short Lower Tier which extends for some 350m from the car park, first northwards then westwards. The upper tiers are very loose and vegetated.
There are other minor cliffs which have been climbed on and are mentioned individually at the end.

Routes with stars are generally reasonably protected. Routes without a first ascent name were developed and soloed or led by Andrew Wielochowski otherwise referred to as ALW.

The following videos are available on youtube:
Blackendecker E2 5b Main Wall
Hangover and Cheeky Half
Royal Flush and Razor
Dirty Vimto E4 6a
Listerine E5 6b

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Comments and updates are most gratefully received. Please email us using email link above.
Andrew Wielochowski 4/9/2014.