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Llyn Brianne

Main Wall

The Main Wall lies above a broad terrace; it is some 300m long, 30m high on average and west-facing. Access to the broad terrace is barred by the short Lower Tier which extends for some 350m from the car park, first northwards then westwards. The upper tiers are very loose and vegetated. A break in the right end of the lower tier provides easy access to the broad terrace below the following climbs ont the Main Wall.

70m left of the right end of the Main Wall and some 20m right of a long scree cone a very obvious right-facing corner/flake-crack leads almost to the top of the cliff. All routes described here are protected with HD bolts.

Cutting Edge, 35m, VS*.
ALW, G. Cornah and A.J.Wielochowski 18/05/08
The flake crack. Start below a birch sapling 3m up the flake line.
1. 4b. Climb to the birch tree then up the creaky flake crack (good runners, medium and some big chocks or cams) to a sloping vegetated ledge. Move 2m left then up past a peg to a bolt and hence by a broken slab to the top. Stake belay.

Razor, 35m, VS+*
ALW and G. Cornah 24/05/08
Climbs the slabby walls right of Cutting Edge a route of character. Start at a crack line 3m right of the Cutting Edge flake crackline.
1. 4c. Move up to a right facing corner, bolt and peg runner, then move up delicately to reach the bolt right of the flaky overhang. Move up awkwardly then continue passing a peg and another bolt to a natural horizontal break line. Move right past sapling to a right-facing corner, peg runner, then up past a bolt, continue easily leftwards to the top.

Close Shave, 40m, VS+**
ALW and G. Cornah 31/05/08
Climbs the slab immediately L of the overhanging flake corner right of Razor. Start just right of a massive block below the corner.
1. 4c. Climb the slab with 5 bolts. After the 3rd bolt it is best to climb the slab directly (bold mantleshelf) past the 4th and fifth bolt (level with the top of the flake corner then up the headwall on good holds (bolt) to easy finish. Belay on stake as for Razor or use the fence a long way back.

Photo: Razor - click to enlarge

close shave
Photo: Close Shave, click to enlarge in another view

Further left the main sweep of Main Wall lies below an awkward to gain terrace. Towards its right end a substantial tree grows with its base just below terrace level. Blackendecker climbs the corner left of the tree moving left onto a steep headwall to finish.

Blackendecker, 25m, E2***.
Sion Wilcox and A.L.Wielochowski 25/07/09
1. 5b. Start below the corner which is climbed passing several bolts to a ledge below the headwall. Move steeply left past a bolt and peg, left then up, reach right for a bolt runner, then continue past a final bolt to the top, various belays.

This is a well-protected route offering some excellent climbing with some dubious rock - for the Brianne connoisseur.

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Comments and updates are most gratefully received. Please email us using email link above.
Andrew Wielochowski 4/9/2014.