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This is the west-facing quarry overlooking the car-park and washrooms. A central bay composed of slabby walls capped with flake roofs is bounded on the right by a vegetated chimney - corner line. Royal Flush climbs the slabby walls some 3m left of this. A further 3m. left the slabby section meets steeper walls further left. The slabby corner marks the left side of the central bay and the start of Sundowner. 3m and 6m right of the vegetated chimney line lie the starts of The Shield and Sink the Bismarck respectively. Click route diagram to enlarge
Sundowner, 25m. HVS- **
ALW and Sion Wilcox 22/08/09
A well-protected (HD bolts and 1 peg) route offering some interesting and varied climbing.
1. 25m. 4c. Climb the slabby corner for 4m to the 1st bolt, steeply up leftwards passing a 2nd bolt to easier ground and a tiny birch tree. Delicately right below a bulging flake to gain a corner. Up this passing two overhangs to the upper corner. Move to the left arete to finish. Stake belays.
Royal Flush, 35m. VS+ **
ALW, Jeff and Julia Banks 27/09/08
A well-protected route (several bolts, (3HD), pegs and some natural runners) with some good climbing.
1. 35m. 4b. Climb the slabby wall with a step right to the 1st bolt, continue up to the overhangs and swing right to a hidden corner then immediately left passing the overhangs to gain the final corner. This can be reached be a direct variation that avoids the swing right - 4c. Belay at stakes 10m beyond the top of the climb.
The Shield, 35m. E2/3 **
Ferdia Earle and ALW 11/08/2010
A well-protected route (HD bolts) with some fine, challenging climbing.
1. 35m. 6a. Climb the steep wall to a ledge below the shield. Up leftwards to the overhang - then using underclings etc. move right to make a difficult step up onto a good foothold and easier ground. Move up a slab with some dubious rock to finish up a slabby corner on the right. Scramble to top - some loose rocks and earth. Belay at stakes 4m beyond the top of the climb.
Sink the Bismarck, 35m. E1/2 **
Sion Wilcox and ALW 23/06/10
A well-protected, easier, companion route to The Shield (HD bolts) with some very good climbing.
1. 35m. 5b/c. Climb the steep wall 2m left of a vegetated overhung corner (2 bolts). Now more easily upwards to a slight bulge, leftwards over this to gain up the upper slab of The Shield and finish up this.