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Red Kite Crag

Rock Climbs

Location: GR 783471 see Location Map. This east and south-facing crag faces the Dinas bird sanctuary and overlooks one of the most beautiful stretches of the Towy river. The rock is a strangly weathered schist with numerous horizontal slots ideal for cams.

Red KiteThe best approaches are from the bridge below Craig Clungwyn, GR 776471 (limited parking). Climb the slope north of the bridge for 30m to a faint path leading east. Stay on this path till almost past the crag then walk up steep grassy slopes to the base (25mins).

The main wall is south facing, above it a short wall sports a few short routes, below numerous small outcrops could provide some entertainment. The east face is slabby and broken.

Main Wall
Three routes have been recorded:

Too Young to Fly 25m E1, 5a
Giles and Tim Cornah 1999
The climbs the left half of the cliff following a slightly vegetated depression-groove.

Egg Snatcher 25m E1, 5a
Giles and Tim Cornah 1999
This takes a direct line up the cliff passing just L of the L-most branches of the holly tree.

River TowyRed Kite 35m E1**
Giles Cornah and Andrew Wielochowski
The R side of the south face is bounded on the R by a pillar, left of this is a deep groove, further left another groove leading to a V shaped holly tree high up (avoid climbing anywhere near this during nesting time). This route starts on a minor lower tier before tackling the rock between the two above-mentioned grooves. Cams very useful.
1. 10m 4a. Climb up passing right of the L-most oak tree growing out of the cliff to a comfortable ledge and belays.
2. 25m 5a. Climb a bulge past a honeysuckle to a small ledge. A steep wall leads awkwardly to a great block. Standing on this fix a thread runner on the arete overloking the holly and kite nest then climb directly up before moving L to finish.

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Comments and updates are most gratefully received. Please email us using email link above.
Andrew Wielochowski 4/9/2014.